Nylon filament

calistocalisto Club Members Posts: 2

I bought this filament:https://hobbyking.com/en_us/pa-nylon-3d-printer-filament-white.html
It does not specify the specifications: recommended temperature, printing speed, temperature of the bed, etc. I have tested several recommended specifications for nylon in general and the results are bad. It takes off from the bed, is very deformed and it is impossible to print a piece unless it is very small. Therefore, a pull of ears for hobiking .... the products have to include a label where detail everything necessary. Therefore, I do not recommend anyone to buy this product.



  • Nick_HKNick_HK Club Members Posts: 89 ✭✭

    Have you tried the settings suggested on the product listing? Also, what printer are you using?

  • calistocalisto Club Members Posts: 2

    Copy of the hobbyking page:
    Filament Material: PA Nylon
    Melting Point: 250°C
    Print Temperature: 250-275°C

    This is very poor information. They should provide more specifications on the material. Also the material coil does not put anything.
    Printer: Anet A6

  • Martin PirringerMartin Pirringer Club Members Posts: 5

    I have had good and bad results with that Nylon (the bad the last roll I got was very inconsistent in diameter and varied in some points from 1.75 as much as 2.34 which means it jameed going into the bowden tube.

    Now the 3kg that printed fine - its a very difficult Nylon to print. You get decent layer adhesion at 275 and a print speed of less than 20mm/sec Volumetric limit set to 8 mm3/sec if you use a .8 nozzle like me. Layer width 1.2 x nozzle width layer height < 50 % nozzle diameter. It sucks in moisture like crazy so it needs drying. Bad thing is that the roll its on cant take higher heat so you got to dry it at like 80 C for many hours with some desecant packs that you dried out real good before in with it. Then print it from a print dry or food dehydrator. If you just stick it on the spool holder and the print takes longer than 30 minutes its going to start popping again. Now I think its Nylon 6/6 or probably fishing line - I mean pure Nylon with nothing done to it to make it print easier. That means after you print it it will be brittle as it is all dried out so you got to rehydrated it. That means wrap the parts in some wet rags and stick them in a zip lock bag or throw them into a bucket of cold water (don't boil them as that will overdue it) and let it sit for 48 hours. It likes to warp so make sure you use a garolite bed and be liberal with the glue stick. Bed temp of 90 C with an enclosure and don't open it up until the bed cools down completely or it will warp after the fact especially if the part is big and solid. If you get it all right you will have some good gears or bearings or bushings. Use plenty of brim but don't use a raft as its almost impossible to print with a raft it either slides off or it becomes permanently attached to it and then you will use a dremel to separate the raft from it. Same holds true for supports. We use it for gears and Bearings (then use 4mm balls to complete them and it works great for that - well not as great as Taulman 910 but then that is 80 bucks/ kg. So if we have the funds we buy the taulman - if not then its that and we go through the trouble. Here is a link to a video I made on it

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