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Choosing an ESC

__BB-Q__BB-Q Club Members Posts: 992
This is something that many people get confused with, but if you follow a few simple rules then you should have no problems.



Firstly, voltage. Make sure you choose an ESC that is capable of handling the number of cells you choose to use. Personally, I will always go for one that is capable of handling more cells than i will be using. For example, if I wish to use a 3S battery on a model I will use an ESC that is capable of handling at least 4S.

Secondly, current capacity. I like to have at least 25% headroom with regards to capacity. So, if I had a setup pulling 30A I'd go for a 40A ESC. Don't go too high though- using a 120A ESC on something only drawing 20A can generate a lot of heat.

You may be asking why you should follow these rules when ESCs have power and voltage ratings but the answer's pretty simple: If you run anything at maximum power for an extended period of time you will shorten it's lifespan. After all, would you run your car constantly at maximum rpm & expect it to last for ever?



Don't forget to ensure that you ESC has the features you require. Some are not suitable for helicopters, for example.



Lastly, connectors.



XT60 can take around 60A constant. For bigger power outputs you need the XT90 or similar. The bigger LiPos usually come with HXT4mm, but my preference is for the XTs. At the motor end try to avoid using the cage type bullet connectors that every motor seems to come fitted with. The contact area is inconsistent and they can get hot at quite low current draws. Use the sprung connectors wherever possible as they can handle surprisingly large currents- over 60A for the 3.5mm, if my memory serves me correctly.



The energy used getting your connectors hot is energy that is not used in turning your motor, and in extreme cases can cause the joint to unsolder itself.__BB-Q2012-11-30 13:57:23

Comments

  • frostbitfrostbit Club Members Posts: 14
    I am sort of under the impration that good ESC's have thurmo pertecion in them, so when theair overloading they start to limet power to protect themselfs and the rest of the system, is this corect or just bunk?

    Also are theair ESC's that can be used with Led Asid batterys? or a power supply?

          Thanks, aney light you can shead will be greatly apresheated.   

                          Frostbit
  • airwaveairwave Club Members Posts: 3,563
    Frostbit,

    1)the addtion of thurmo protection is some what new.as for a "good" esc will have it??.It will protect the ESC,it will do this by power limets.

    if you need 100 amps then you may only get 50?60?70?.the best is to have FET that can handle the power you need and can get rid of the heat.

    2,ESC can use any well filterd DC,that said they will do thing different things at or near votlages that match there shut off voltage.

    1 that has no low voltage protection will run till the voltage get below the rating of the componets

    1 that is set for MHNI or NICD packs will slow down or shut off at a lower voltage than 1 set for lipo.each will do this at the single cell volts,I/E if you set it for 3 cell lipo than at ~9.6 to 9.0 volts it will do its thing.if you use a 9.0 volt power supply(battery or other)it may not run well at all.set at 4 cell lipo this would be 12.8~12 volts.

    in short the voltage setting and power supply must match.
  • frostbitfrostbit Club Members Posts: 14
    airwave

            Thanks for anser

                      Frostbit

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